Carefully pull the piece of cut drywall away from the wall. Set it aside so that you can reinstall it later. Do this from the existing outlet to the location where you'd like the new outlet. Install NM Romex through the holes that you drilled. Leave some slack at each end for adjustments later. If your box requires a Romex connector, add it now about 6 to 7 inches from the end of the wire. Remove the lock nut for now. You will need it later. From the existing box, take the knockout out of the bottom of the box.
Feed a fish tape or a scrap piece of wire through the hole until you see it in the opening that you cut below. Attach the Romex to it with electrical tape and pull it through the hole in the box. Attach the lock nut and secure it with a tap on a screwdriver. Take a tape measure and measure the top of the existing outlet.
Now mark the new outlet the same. Use a pencil and a level to align and mark the new cut-in box. Using the drywall saw, cut the drywall and remove the scrap. Knock out the bottom knockout of the cut-in box, so that you'll be able to insert the wire. Now, install the box and tighten the side straps or add Madison straps to hold the box in place.
Your box may have its own wire strap. If so, tighten it once the wire is pulled at least 6 inches into the box. Using a drywall screw, reinstall the drywall piece that you earlier cut out. Reinstall the base trim. Now it's time to vacuum up any evidence. Bend a half-moon and wrap the black wire clockwise around the brass-colored screw.
The white wire is next and it is attached similarly, only to the silver-colored screw. The bare copper wire connects to the green screw. Related Articles. Part 1. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Find out if you need a permit or professional installation.
Depending on where you live, you may need a permit to add an electrical outlet in your home. In some places, you may need to hire a professional to do any electrical work.
Check with your local code office to find out if either of these pertains to your area. Turn off the circuit breaker. Locate the breaker box in your home, which is usually in a basement, garage, or hallway. Flip the switch to the Off position to cut power to the area. Use a non-contact voltage tester to check the circuit before moving forward. Assemble the necessary tools and materials. To install a new electrical outlet and make the connections safely, you'll need a few basic electricians' tools.
Determine the best location for the outlet. Measure the distance off the floor to the other outlets in the building. Measure from the center of the existing box location to the center of the desired new box location.
Turn off the power in the outlet. Take off the cover plate held on by the single screw in the middle of the outlet and measure to the hole cut in the wall. Find an opening in the wall. Outlets must always be attached to a stud for security and safety. Mark a space at the appropriate height, at a location between 2 studs. The easiest way to locate studs if to use a "stud finder" available at many hardware stores.
You can also try tapping the wall lightly with a hammer and moving slowly across the wall and listening closely. The wall will sound hollow for most of the taps and then sound "solid" when you have reached a stud.
Confirm there are no other mechanical or plumbing items in the wall. Check for plumbing from sinks showers or toilets on the opposite side of the wall. Be aware of any HVAC air returns or ducts.
If there is a grill high up or at the bottom of the wall where you want the outlet, you can't do it with the air return in the same wall space. Explore with a nail hole and hanger.
Poke a hole and use something like a wire hanger to "feel" around inside the wall cavity to check. Find out where you can get power. There are 2 basic ways to install a new electrical outlet, running electrical wiring from a circuit breaker to the new location, or from another outlet in the same room. Depending on where you're installing a new outlet—living space, basement, or outdoor area—access to power may vary. Find the closest and most convenient place to connect to make the job easy on yourself.
Be sure to consider the existing electrical load and what the new load will add to the existing branch circuit. Calculate the load to ensure it is safe. The most convenient source of power may not be the safest! In general, the load for the existing outlet has already been calculated for the circuit, and running a new outlet is likely to overload that circuit.
It's typically best to take new wire from the panel and install a new outlet if you need it. Part 2. Cut a hole for the new outlet. Trace the outlet box on the wall where you want it to go. Then, use a keyhole saw or strong utility knife and make small and firm incisions over and over until you have cut through the wall material.
Walls made with plaster may require you to drill holes into the corners and cut the hole with a Sawzall. Run the wire from the power source to the new outlet. Look for ways to extend the branch circuit wiring vertically from the source of power, such as through an attic or basement.
Or, use an external method such as conduit or wire mold, or run a fish tape through the hole for the new outlet to run the conductors. Pull the appropriate kind of wire between the 2 locations.
Once you have access to the locations, get your Romex non-metallic wire. Give yourself 12 to 18 inches 30 to 46 cm of wire sticking out on both ends. Wire the new receptacle first and then go back and connect the new wire to the existing circuit.
Cut sheathing off Romex about 8 inches Check the circuit breaker to determine the correct amperage. You should use wire that is proper for the power rating of that circuit and of the same size as the wire you are connecting to.
Take a sample of the existing wire with you when you go to purchase the new wire. It is best to identify what type of panel you have and whether or not the breakers are available or obsolete.
Part of this process involves removing the dead front assembly the door over your breakers and looking inside at the bussing. This can potentially be dangerous if you accidentally short out the metal plate to the bussing in the panel. Depending on the type of panel it can be relatively simple or very hazardous.
Murray or Bryant type panels usually are the safest to install into. If your panel happens to be a Zinsco, Stablok or Pushmatic you can set yourself up for serious problems trying to do this yourself.
For instance on Pushmatic panels the bussing is usually energized. Without the proper knowledge you could accidentally short the bussing out and cause a catastrophic failure phase to ground or phase to phase short. The symmetrical amperage faults available are only limited by the primary fusing on the transformer and the overall design of the system.
Just something to keep in mind when doing this job yourself. I would recommend disconnecting power and removing the meter and ring if possible to eliminate hazards. This too is often outside the scope of do it yourself type work. Run a cable from the circuit breaker panel to your new outlet location. Size circuit breaker for wire size.
If a cable is run from the panel to the outlet, then a 15 amp circuit breaker is the largest that can be used to protect that circuit. If a cable is run from the panel to the outlet, then a 20 amp circuit breaker is the largest that can be installed to protect the circuit. Support cable. Prepare the cable for entry into the box. The end of the cable needs to be carefully stripped of the outer jacket prior to installing into the box. Strip back 8 inches Install cable into box.
Use of plastic or fiber electrical boxes are quicker to work than steel boxes because they do not require additional grounding. A steel box must be grounded so that it does not require the device for it to be grounded pigtailing the ground to the device AND the box solves this.
Connect the neutral wire to the device. The white wire neutral wire needs to be secured under either silver screw on the side of the receptacle. Connect the "hot" wire to the device. The black wire "hot" wire needs to be secured under either gold screw on the opposite side of the neutral wire. Connect the ground wire. The free end of one wire will connect to the green ground screw of the outlet, and the other free end is to be connected to the metal box with a green screw expressly for that purpose or other approved means special clips, etc.
If a plastic or other non-conductive material box is used, simply connect the bare copper wire directly under the green screw of the outlet. The ground wire is usually green and connects to the green terminal. Gently fold the wires to the rear of the box and secure the outlet to the box and attach the wall plate.
Remove the panel cover, and set aside. Exercise extreme caution working near this switch. These are available in a variety of styles, and materials. The easiest to install are the low profile plastic push in type. Cut cable to length.
Again, strip the entire jacket except to allow for about an inch of jacket cable inside the panel. Wrap the end of the cable with a couple of turns of electrical tape. Push the cable through the connector and help pull it with your other hand once it enters the panel. Once about an inch of jacketed cable is INSIDE the panel, stop advancing cable, and secure it within 18" of the panel with an insulated staple. Inspect the panel.
Look carefully at the bar s. Regardless of which type you have, you must maintain the integrity of the grounding and neutral systems by duplicating the termination scheme outlined below. Connect the neutral and ground wires. The white and ground bare wires are to be secured under the bar s in the main panel. Cut these wires to length PLUS 12 inches If you have the combined neutral and ground style, secure these two wires in terminals as close together as possible.
Do not install BOTH wires in the same terminal! If you have separate neutral and ground bars, install the wires in the respective terminal bar. Connect to the circuit breaker. Cut this wire so as to allow it to be connected to ANY breaker position in the panel - plus a little slack. You never know when you might have to move the circuit to a different location in the panel, having enough wire to do so will make the job much easier.
Set the handle of the circuit breaker to OFF.
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